Prêt-à-porter vs Haute Couture: Definition and Runway Style
Episode 11.2 · Prêt-à-porter | Haute Couture | Definition · 2023-07-21 · 13:27 · Chapter 11 · by Stephan M. Czaja

Quick answer
Prêt-à-porter is ready-to-wear fashion: non-customized collections sold in standard sizes and shown twice a year at fashion weeks. Haute couture is handcrafted, exclusive, often unwearable high fashion from designers approved by the French Fashion Association. Models walk relaxed with eye contact for prêt-à-porter, and elite and subdued for couture.
What you’ll learn
- Prêt-à-porter means ready-made, non-customized collections sold in retail stores in predefined sizes.
- Prêt-à-porter is shown in spring/summer and autumn/winter seasons, plus resort, cruise, pre-fall and capsule collections.
- Haute couture means high sewing art, and the French Fashion Association decides which designers belong to it.
- Prêt-à-porter walks are relaxed with eye contact, smiles and posing, while haute couture walks are elite and subdued.
- In haute couture shows the fashion always takes center stage, and the model should not distract from the collection.
Read the full episode transcript
Prêt-à-porter.
Prêt-à-porter fashion, also known as ready-to-wear fashion, refers to the ready-made non-customized collections of designers and labels. Ready-made fashion is the type of clothing we find in retail stores in various predefined sizes, for example, size thirty-eight or M.
In the past, the fashion industry was appalled by the first catwalk presentations of prêt-à-porter collections by early designers. Why? Non-customized meant non-exclusive. However, in today's time, it is entirely normal. At fashion weeks all over the world, prêt-à-porter collections of designers are admired and celebrated. For the designers themselves, prêt-à-porter collections are immensely important alongside haute couture as ready-to-wear fashion is wearable and significantly boosts their sales figures. In the public eye, the label forms its image and sets trends that can actually be worn.
Of course, among the prêt-à-porter collections, there are fashion highlights that only very daring fashionistas would wear on the streets. Here too, the designer aims to stand out, remain in conversation, and be remembered by fashion professionals.
Origin of prêt-à-porter.
Yves Saint Laurent caused a sensation with his prêt-à-porter collection on the catwalks in the nineteen sixties, becoming one of the first well-known designers to do so. But who invented prêt-à-porter? Pierre Cardin. The Italian designer Pierre Cardin shaped prêt-à-porter into what it is today. His name is known to only a few.
Pierre Cardin was born in Italy in nineteen twenty-two. In nineteen forty-five, he moved from Italy to Paris, France. He began his career in the fashion industry as a fashion illustrator at Paquin and designed costumes for the film Beauty and the Beast. In nineteen forty-seven, the talented Italian moved to the designer label Dior. Three years later, he started his own label and developed prêt-à-porter fashion. His first women's fashion collection appeared in nineteen fifty-three, followed by the men's collection in nineteen fifty-seven.
Everyday fashion is therefore not as old as we might think. Fashion is relatively new as we can see from a historical perspective. Today, we marvel at new collections every season. However, there are also differences in form and execution within prêt-à-porter.
Prêt-à-porter runway style.
The casual walk is fittingly more relaxed than the design walk with shows designed to convey a certain lifestyle. Models are allowed to sway their hips slightly, and their upper bodies and gazes need not be rigid. A friendly motivating smile graces the models' faces. At the end of the catwalk, they pose for photographers seeking eye contact with the audience. Winking, blowing a kiss, or giving a sexy smile are allowed and encouraged.
Casual also comes into play when fashion is functional, like fitness and sportswear. Here, models with dance skills or certain athletic abilities, sometimes even martial arts, are often booked, leading to elaborate choreographies for the show. The music is cheerful, modern, and often directly from the current charts. Large shows may even feature live acts on stage to add even more life to the show.
As a model, prêt-à-porter shows are somewhat more demanding. You must build eye contact, follow the choreography, and add your own movements. You often have to create moments in your walk that catch the attention of the audience or photographers. Haute couture shows are different.
Prêt-à-porter seasons.
The designer's prêt-à-porter collections are presented on the runway during two fashion seasons, once in spring/summer and once in autumn/winter. These are the classic main fashion seasons. The presentations of prêt-à-porter fashion take place at fashion weeks in fashion capitals like New York, Milan, London, and Paris, but also in emerging fashion cities like Hong Kong, Shanghai, and others. Established designers as well as celebrated newcomers showcase their collections here twice a year at the beginning and middle of each season.
Only twice a year every six months? So little? Exactly. That's why in addition to the main seasons, there are various intermediate seasons.
Resort fashion collections.
In February, the new prêt-à-porter pieces by designers typically hit the stores. However, as early as November, the intermediate season for resort fashion begins. Fashion fans can already look forward to the summer and anticipate the new trends.
Cruise fashion collections.
As the name suggests, cruise fashion is for travel-hungry fashion enthusiasts. Cruise is a subcategory of resort fashion specializing in jet set customers who want to escape the winter and soak up the sun in December. In the past, this was particularly typical for wealthier society members who enjoyed cruises to warmer regions during the winter months. Hence, the name cruise inspired by cruise ship. Today, cruise is part of the resort collection with little differentiation.
Pre-fall fashion collections.
The counterpart to the rather summery prêt-à-porter resort collection is the autumn winter prêt-à-porter pre-fall collection. This hits the stores in July, delighting customers with new designs for autumn and winter, yet still made from lighter fabrics.
Capsule collection fashion.
Capsule collections are collections that don't belong to any specific season. They are the timeless pret a porter fashion of the year. These collections are also called special editions and are released unexpectedly and irregularly.
Haute couture.
Haute couture on the fashion show, what is it exactly? As previously described, haute couture translates to high sewing art or high fashion. It refers to the elevated designs of top-tier fashion designers. The French Fashion Association Chamber, Syndicale de la Haute Couture, determines who belongs to the circle of haute couture designers, such as Chanel, Dior, or Elie Saab. These designers, also known as couturiers, must adhere to strict rules to maintain their position in the world of haute couture. The French Fashion Association sets regulations and guidelines to ensure that the circle of couturiers remains exclusive.
Elaborate, extravagant, and practically unwearable fashion, particularly handcrafted, precious, and luxurious garments, belong to haute couture. Another hallmark of these impressive gowns is the finest handiwork. Naturally, such masterpieces are hardly affordable, and only a very select, narrow circle of wealthy individuals counts themselves as customers for haute couture fashion. The price of a haute couture gown is staggering.
One of the few places, apart from the catwalks, where you can admire haute couture fashion is the red carpet at very exclusive events, such as the Oscars. Unlike the purely artistic haute couture creations of past years, some gowns, dresses, and now even trousers are more wearable for upscale events.
Origin.
Where does haute couture fashion actually come from? Haute couture originated in France in the mid-nineteenth century. Charles Frederick Worth was the first and is considered the founding father who offered tailor-made and handcrafted exclusive fashion based on his own designs. Until then, custom-made clothing was produced exclusively based on the customer's wishes. Worth brought about a turning point in the fashion industry.
Following this, the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne was established, a committee which is now referred to as the Fashion Association and still determines the rules concerning haute couture. Only when a designer label's collection is approved by this committee can the designer present their haute couture line on the couture shows of Fashion Weeks.
Alta Moda.
The Italian counterpart to the French haute couture is called Alta Moda. Unlike the term haute couture, the term Alta Moda is not protected and can be freely used among designers. In addition to Milan, Alta Moda shows also take place in Florence or Rome, and there is no fixed schedule or location for these fashion shows. The world-famous luxury designer duo Dolce & Gabbana presents their Alta Moda collections in Milan. In Rome, established designers and newcomers alike present their collections to a wide audience during Fashion Week.
Haute couture runway style.
Haute couture represents walks of the upper class, full of elegance and grace. During the design walk, models are booked purely for the outfit. The music is subtle, classical, experimental, or extremely modern. In any case, it is different. High-priced fashion labels thrive on not conforming to mainstream trends. This is also evident in their expressive, almost extroverted shows. Think of Karl Lagerfeld's annual shows for Chanel in Paris to get an idea of how extravagant a fashion show can be.
Nevertheless, the walks and models always remain elite. The model's gaze is fixed straight ahead without changing expression or making eye contact. The shoulders are pulled back, and the pelvis is pushed forward. Models try not to move their upper bodies while walking. At the end of the catwalk, you will never engage in extreme posing. Everything is subdued, and the audience admires the fashion creations. The model should not distract from the designer's collection, which is absolutely the focal point. Therefore, when you walk for designers of the higher fashion art, be aware that the fashion always takes center stage.
If you want to experience all style elements in one city, you must attend Fashion Weeks as a model. Fashion Week is something very special, especially for all the people behind the scenes. Here, all elements of fashion come together for a short time: models, model agents, fashion designers, media representatives, celebrities, fashion victims, bloggers, and influencers. For both new faces and seasoned professionals, the shows and events off the runways have their own unique charm. People know each other, meet again, and discuss new trends and ideas. With each Fashion Week, you learn and grow.
There are many opportunities to experience fantastic events once you know a few things and build your own little network, so that you, as a new face, are not completely disoriented during your first Fashion Week. I will describe how a Fashion Week works from the perspective of a model and a model agency. Since my hometown is Germany, I will take you to Berlin and show you how the preparations and show days go. First, let's take a look at Fashion Weeks worldwide so you can see that Berlin is just a small part of the fashion industry.


